How to Identify Vintage Cast Iron Banks

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How to Authenticate Cast Iron Banks

Even banks with paint wear can be valuable, and the paint should never be touched up on these cast iron pieces. Collectors value original condition more than anything when it comes to these pieces, just as with Hubley toys and cast iron door stops. Banks should be in good working order to bring high values as well.

With that said, the reason they are valuable is that they are not plentiful and reproductions of many of these banks have been made and most are artificially aged to look old. The chance of you having an authentic mechanical bank worth thousands, especially if you found it at a flea market, is slim. Be sure to have yours authenticated and appraised by a professional before trying to sell it.

To identify banks made after the '30s, appraisers look at the finish—pre-'30s cast-iron banks have smoother surfaces, and the painting on earlier banks tends to be more detailed. Another technique involves tracing the base and comparing it to the documented base size of the originals; reproductions tend to be a hair smaller than the antiques. It is generally accepted that most antique banks will require some repair to work properly, as springs tend to corrode or break over time. Certain banks, like Two Frogs, have vulnerable parts that are usually broken off, and it is acceptable to replace them. It is also common for early banks to have hairline cracks in the iron, crazing in the paint, and paint that's flaked or faded. Cosmetic repairs, though, are usually discouraged.

The digital world has made it easy to copy marks and items with paper lithos. Add to that the fact that some of the old molds are being used to produce new-old toys, you’ve got to know what to look for. Below are some tips to follow when shopping for cast iron toys and banks.

Old cast iron toys and banks can be quite valuable – just exercise care when shopping. Some of the more common toys and banks being reproduced are: beer wagon with horses, Ford trucks and cars, circus animals and mechanical and still banks of all varieties. One way to authenticate old cast iron, is to use a black light and magnet, below, or to perform the following check:

Old cast iron

will have a much smoother surface than it’s new fake. Repros may display bumps, holes or pits on the surface. These are hard to see if the piece is painted. So check the underside of any cast iron toy for these flaws.

toys will have better details and cleaner edges while new fakes tend to show leakage at the seams since the new molds aren’t as well fitted as the old molds. Look for these ‘gap leaks’ to show grind marks in an effort to make the seam smooth. Old toys were typically fitted by hand with the edges being smoothed and you are less like to see any gaps.

were painted and usually dipped; not spray painted like new repros. Inspect the paint for brush marks, and look for drip deposits on underside of toy – old toys will exhibit these. When buying cast iron banks, look for paint on both the outer and inner edges of the slot. Also old paint – typically enamel or oil based – will tend to chip where as the newer acrylic paint will not. When reviewing a painted piece look for uneven wear and random scratching. Simulated wear will display a consistent, repeated pattern.

that are unpainted tends to be dark brown or black; newer cast iron tends to be dirty silver or gray. Even the rust is different. Old cast iron items that have rusted tend to be dark brown/black while new cast iron will lean towards red or reddish brown. Be wary as some will soak new cast iron in chemicals to age or bury in the ground to "age."

(pre-1940) should not have phillips head screws.The images below give some close-ups of what to look for on an original piece.

TOOLS: Black Light & Magnet:

Take a portable, battery-op black light along when shopping. They are invaluable for detecting new paint as it will fluoresce; old paint will not. A black light is also good in detecting repairs and repainted areas.

Use a small magnet to check the piece for hidden repairs that may be made using an epoxy or aluminum.

Final thoughts, old cast iron toys and banks will be heavier than their newer counterparts and taking advantage of your own common sense while shopping will also serve to keep you from investing in a fake.

Reference: https://www.txantiquemall.com/cast-iron-toys-banks-tips-to-identify-reproductions-fakes/ 21 Feb 22

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The Aris Collection

Hobby Ceramics

Cast Iron Banks

Collectible items made in Occupied Japan during the summer of 1945 through the spring of 1952 while U.S. troops were in the country. The entire collection is up for sale and includes all documentation.

As of March 2023, Agnestelle Hobby Ceramic Shop only has finished pieces for sale. All molds, bisque and supplies have been turned over to Emma's Ceramic Studio (ECS).

Authentic still and Mechanical cast iron banks from the Collection of Charles Westley Atwood. These banks were first manufactured in the late 1800s, to instill the concept of earning saving money.